Gringo In Peru

We’re back from Buenos Aires, Argentina.

It was a good time, but it will be a while before I eat another steak.

Part of the Buenas Aires skyline near the port

On first glance Bs. As. (as the locals abbreviate it) reminded me of a large U.S. city like New York and Chicago.

The airport is about 15 miles from Buenos Aires proper. We flew in on Sunday and the first thing big change from Lima was the air. Since Bs. As. is further south its cooler there than Lima. (Remember we are in the southern hemisphere so directions and their effects are opposite for most readers.)

The dry, cool air reminded me of late fall in the Midwest before the snow starts flying. Except there would be no snow here or real cold. One day the local news was buzzing that the morning temperature was between 2 to 5 degrees Celsius, depending on what part of the city you were in. Keep in mind that is 36-41 Fahrenheit.

Leaving the airport I was taken back by another Argentinian surprise. Trees. Scruffy cedar, birch and other types of trees lined the highway. Even the road was very un-Peruvian. It reminded me of a highway in the good old U.S.A. four lanes, separated in the middle by grass and room to pull over.

There were vast brown fields of emptiness on both sides of the highway lined with families flying kites, playing soccer and just hanging out. Our taxi driver told us these were unofficial parks where people spend the day.

Those sites were instantly comforting. Before we left, I stumbled across a blog kept by guy living in Bs. As. whose advice to all visitors was buy a knife and pepper spray as soon as you can. This blog also offered advice on cleaning your gun.

For the record. I was never mugged and I never felt unsafe.

I was a bit worried about the H1N1. Argentina has the most cases in South America and the second most deaths in the world after the U.S.A. So far no symptoms.

A look at where our hotel was

Our hotel was Downtown. It was a typical tourist-type hotel. A small room with barely enough room for a bed, two suitcases and a TV. It was clean and the bed was comfortable enough. The place reminded me of every hotel in New York I’ve ever stayed in. Vanessa seemed a little disappointed with it. After all we booked the trip through her cousin. I guess she expected more. At least the location was perfect.

I didn’t take many pictures, but there will be some coming in the following days. I enjoyed the trip, but wasn’t inspired by the place. The picts represent things I liked about Bs. As. and I hope you like them too.

Don’t worry there will be a lot more about the trip coming soon.

Just dropping a note to all you loyal readers we are off to Argentina. Today is my anniversary and we’re leaving tomorrow for Buenos Aires. It’s hard to believe its been one year since we were married in lovely Moorhead, MN and 11 months since we moved to Peru. Now we’re off for a second honeymoon of sorts.

Sorry the blogging has been light lately. Not much new to report. We wrapped up testing at the institute this week and now we’re packing for our trip.

Yesterday we actually got a letter in the mail saying Vanessa’s waiver has been approved. We’re being told we’ll likely have to wait another two months or so for a second interview at the Embassy, then who knows how much longer for the Visa.

Vanessa also found out she will have an extended vacation. The Peruvian health minster has asked all schools to stay closed an extra week. She doesn’t know if she’ll still have to work though.

Don’t worry, I’ll post plenty of pictures when we get back from Argentina. This blog needs a little color anyway.

This month all us teachers get a bonus. For Vanessa it means double salary. Since I’ve only been working “officially” since March it comes out to like 65%, which isn’t bad.

It was real nice going to an ATM and seeing a lot of money in the bank account. It reminded me what it’s like getting an “American style” paycheck.

The H1N1 scare is reaching another fevered pitch in Peru. The health ministry closed all the schools this week to prevent the disease from spreading. This isn’t as big a deal as you think. Schools were going to be closed next week anyways for a mid-semester/national holiday break. Institutes don’t have to close so I’ll keep on truckin’.

In fact the government is threatening to fine and throw school administrators in jail if they don’t close down. Today Vanessa went to school “undercover”, because she has grading to do. All of the teachers at her school are expected to work. I told her she should call the health ministry to rat out her school.

You are starting to see a few people here and there wearing masks in public. There was one more death in Peru. Plus, a few students and a professor at a popular university have tested positive for the flu.

I have a mask, but haven’t worn it… yet.

The other night I was fleeced for 20 cents.

I was riding the bus home when the “charger” made his rounds looking for a fare. I gave him my Sol and he asked me where I was going. I told him, he gave me my ticket and I thought that was the end of it.

When we got to the midway point of the ride, he tried pointing me off the bus. After I told him where I was going, again, he nodded and as the bus continued. Keep in mind, if I was to get off at this particular stop I should have received change back. This made me a little suspicious. He was trying to charge me double.

When the bus came to my stop, he asked for 20 cents more. I asked him why and told him every day I pay one sol (about 35 cents). He just looked at me and asked for 20 more cents. So he got it. If my Minnesota high school math is correct that comes out to about seven cents American.

Vanessa said I should have refused, but who knows where the bus would have dropped me off. This dude was obviously pocketing that extra 20 cents. I didn’t see him ask anyone else for a “tip” when they got off. I must have looked like an easy target.

I’ve taken the bus a few more times since, and the fare has remained one sol.

Oh, the small price of being a gringo in Peru.

I confess. I have committed a few culinary sins while in Peru.

Normally, I would rail against chain restaurants, with their one-size-fits all taste bud approach and their frighteningly similar decor that intentionally keeps you confused so you don’t know if you are eating at T.G. Chilibees or somebody’s junk crowded basement.

In our time here in Peru V and I have intentionally visited the following: Chili’s, T.G.I. Friday’s and McDonald’s. Sometimes you just want to eat laboratory engineered American junk. Our visits to these fine vestiges of American cuisine have yielded mixed results.

Friday’s really sucked. I can’t recall what V and I had, but we both agreed the flavor was lost during the long trip across the Pacific ocean. Our meals were American sized portions of tasteless gruel. Which I’ll admit was disappointing since I would usually rank Friday’s as one of the more acceptable chain restaurants back home. After our meal we both vowed to never go to Friday’s again, anywhere in the world.

Chili’s was much better. In fact, we’ve been there a few times. Vanessa really likes that it serves American sweet corn. There is Peruvian corn, called “choclo”, its a pail, yellow, with nickle sized kernels and isn’t very sweet. The first time we went I had the fajitas and they delivered everything fajitas should. The last time we were there I had some salad which sat like a rock in my gut. It’s amazing how something designed to be light morphed into something heavy. After that trip we haven’t been back.

(What is it about American food that’s so bad?)

I’m not going to talk about McDonald’s food, because we all know how it is. Trust me, its no different here. What is different is the McCafe. All the McDonald’s here seem to have these Starbucks style coffee shops complete with overstuffed leather couches inside the restaurants. The cafe’s sell actual brewed espresso drinks, desserts and muffins. Prices tend to be about half of Starbucks and the quality reflects the price.

Yes, there are Starbucks here where everything is American (except for the coffee). Which I find really funny. Everyone behind the counter speaks Spanish, the customers speak Spanish, but the cups, cardboard holders and the “save the planet” signs are all printed in English. I wonder if the coffee it serves, most of which is grown in Columbia and Peru, is shipped to the U.S. for roasting, then exported back here for consumption. Save the planet indeed! The irony!

I would think some Peruvian entrepreneur would open a Peruvian chain of coffee houses. After all, Peru grows coffee so the product overhead would be minimal. You could call it “Inca Cafe”. All you really need is a store front and paper cups and a logo paying homage to Peru’s ancient roots. It could be a hit! All I need are some investors……

I just recieved word that Vanessa’s waiver has been approved.

That is a big step in the right direction for our return to the U.S. Of course, she needs a visa, but everything is going according to plan. Our lawyer thinks we should have her visa by the end of your summer/our winter.

So far so good. The waiting continues.

The bus drivers are on strike again, which is causing some trouble here in Lima.

Drivers are protesting a new law doubling and tripling fines for breaking the rules of the road. Of course if a bus driver (and that’s a big if) ever gets pulled over for his Evel Knievel driving feats, he never pays the real fine anyway. It’s even less likely he’ll actually get a ticket. Usually the drivers and police work out some sort of “deal” or what we like to call a bribe. All this new law does is put more money in the policeman’s pocket. The cost per bribe has just gone up.

This isn’t a total strike. There are some buses on the road. They are all packed to the gills. Many are charging full fares, but not running complete routes. Meaning many commuters have to take multiple buses and pay double to triple the fare.

The Taxi drivers are in on this too. I’ve been told many are charging double or triple fares, knowing people have no other options.

Yesterday I took a bus home from a morning meeting at work. The bus went a little more than half way and dropped us all off. Some people took taxis, others tried to get on other buses that didn’t bother to stop. I was reasonably close to the house so I called my mother-in-law.

I got a ride to and from work last night and I’ll need another today.