Archive for April, 2009

On Good Friday

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

Lamas knows how to celebrate a crucifixion.

People from all over the state of San Martin gather in the Lamas town square to watch a live-action demonstration of the stations of the cross ending with the death of Jesus.

We didn’t get too close to the action, although we walked by the guards with who eventually killed Jesus before the festivities began. They were “guarding” the city in the afternoon. And the mob that eventually crucified God’s only son ran right by us.

The crowd was so large we didn’t even get close to the the crucifixion, but we caught some of the “after party”. When the event was over, people just hung out in the town square, eating carnival-type food and drank their favorite beverage.

Waterfall

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

While we were on our jungle trip we visited the Ahuanshiyacu waterfall, which is about 15 KM from Tarapoto. To get there we hired Vanessa’s cousin. He has a travel agency that leads tourists around various sites in the area.

It’s about a 20 minute drive to the waterfall, on a newly paved winding mountain road. On the road to and from the waterfall there were mini-waterfalls that popped up out of the rocks. It was really neat to see. When you get there, you walk a kilometer or two down a lush green path, complete with hanging rope bridges and tropical streams to the site.

The waterfall itself was postcard perfect and cold. We could feel cool mist as we ventured near it. Some brave souls go in the water. We did not. Plus getting behind the water meant walking on some very slippery rocks.

The water appears to be brown, much like many of the waterfalls near Duluth and the north shore. I’m told the color is the result of the decaying leaves and tree branches that eventually fall into the river.

The Castle

Monday, April 20th, 2009

Last week I took you on a tour of the Wayku, a traditional Peruvian Indian village in Lamas. Just steps from this third-worldesque shanty town is a castle. For 50 cents you can take a tour of this home in progress yourself. Of course, this is the largest attraction in Lamas. On Good Friday, the castle was full of curious on-lookers.

The “guards” at the castle say it is going to be a vacation home for some Italian man. I can’t tell you how many rooms there are inside the castle, because its still rough. What I can tell you is the building is about six stories high and features great views of the jungle, complete with a pool with a giant horse head carved from stone and a swim up bar. The castle is expected to be complete by 2011.

Sorry, I got busy last week and didn’t blog much. You will see many more posts this week.

Back from the jungle

Tuesday, April 14th, 2009

We had a great trip to the jungle region of Peru. We flew into Tarapoto, but spent most of our time in Lamas about 20 KM away.

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The flight to Tarapoto took about an hour. Driving there would take about 20-24 hours because of the terrain. Since this was a national flight people could bring just about anything they want on board. No live chickens (that will come later), but many stocked up on fast food (?) from the airport. Travelers filled the overhead storage bins with boxes carrying KFC and Dunkin’ Donuts. Which I didn’t understand. The food on our trip was so good and natural I don’t understand why they want spread our processed American garbage to the masses. I’ll write more about the food and the growing process in a later entry.

We landed in Tarapoto around 9:30. The airport was nice, but simple. Four gates in a glorified poll barn with cement floors. I was expecting to see monkeys swinging from banana trees and snakes when we landed. This jungle wasn’t like that, everything was green. There were banana trees though.

From there we took a 15 minute taxi ride to Lamas. This was as close to small town South America as you can get. Instead of Main Street, there was a town square. Front doors were open along every street and you are more than welcome to come inside. Here the wood-paneled station wagons is replaced, motorcycles and moto taxis buzzing around carrying the business of the day. Everybody says “Hi” to you and nobody hides behind 10 foot walls like they do in Lima. Another big difference is cleanliness. In Lima everything is covered with a fine grey dust you don’t find in Lamas.

While I’m painting an almost idyllic portrait of this jungle city there are some stark differences. All the houses have rusted tin roofs. Most have electricity, but don’t have hot water or air conditioning. Things like the internet and TV are around, but are not the main means of entertainment.

The view from a Wayku street

The view from a Wayku street

No where is this more evident then the “Wayku” neighborhood. This is where the “natives” live. Here people live in one or two room houses that are more like man-made caves. The only modern convenience many had was a single electric light bulb. Water came from a community pipe outside down in a valley. If they wanted water for the home they carried it away from the pipe in big clay jugs placed on the head.

The houses are made of a mixture of cement and yellow clay, giving them a distinctive color. While walking through the Wayku one man invited us into his home, he even offered us a drink. Really there wasn’t much to see. One big main room and a doorway leading to the kitchen/bedroom. The owner of the house was proud of the work he had done building the home and even offered us a drink. We didn’t take him up on his offer, but thanked him anyway.

Me, the native we bribed and V

Me, the native we bribed and V

The native people still practice many of the traditions they’ve held for thousands of years. Although many have adopted by wearing more modern clothing and shoes. During our walk we bribed a native woman with five soles (about $1.70) to let us take a picture with her. She was more than happy to pose with us for money.

Our Wayku was just one of the many great experiences we had on our trip. Don’t worry there’s more to come.

The big OK

Wednesday, April 8th, 2009

Work gave me the OK for the trip. So I will have a job to come back to Monday morning.

Before getting approved my boss mentioned the permission was granted because we had purchased the ticket so far in advance. She also mentioned that the days off policy was mentioned to me during my human resources interview, which was all in Spanish. The woman did try to speak some English to me, but I must not have understood the days off part.

Sometimes ignorance pays off.

We leave today for Lamas a city in the jungle. Don’t worry, I’ll take plenty of pictures to share.

My mom might visit Peru afterall

Tuesday, April 7th, 2009

Because of this news.

The “site” is less than 10 miles from my in-law’s beach house.

A tail of two bureaucracies

Tuesday, April 7th, 2009

It was a lot of waiting. It was not the worst of times, but I’m not sure if anything got done.

Monday was paperwork day here in Peru.

First, Vanessa and I had an “appointment” at the United States Embassy. Then, I had an appointment with the Peruvian National Police for reasons I’m still not that sure of.

Our first stop was the U.S. Embassy or as I like to call it “The fortress of democracy”. It’s a huge building surrounded by a 15 foot high wall, armed guards and national police tanks. You have to wait in line to go in, then pass two security checkpoints where you are searched airport style, with out the taking off the shoes part. Cameras and cell phones are not allowed in the Embassy, so you have to leave them at the first checkpoint.

Vanessa’s appointment with Uncle Sam was supposed to begin at 8:45 a.m., but bureaucrats work on their own clock I suppose. We arrived at the Embassy around 8, waited in line, and were then ushered into a waiting room with about 100 others. The room was nice for a waiting room, it wasn’t the DMV. It was clean with dark wood-paneled walls and cushioned bushes without backs.

Vanessa was called first to turn in her paperwork to one window, then called back because her pictures were not the right “size”. So we had to leave the fortress and get her picture taken. This isn’t that hard. There are literally a half-dozen storefronts offering passport pictures while you wait outside the Embassy walls. Of course, they charge almost triple the usual price, but you’re paying for convenience.

With pictures in hand we were finally called for our interview around 10:45. It wasn’t really an interview so much as we talked to an American woman (from Wisconsin!) through a thick window of what I can only assume is bulletproof glass. She told us we are only a form and a waiver away from a Visa for Vanessa, but its the visa we don’t want. Plus, we don’t have the waiver yet. That is expected to take a year. It’s good to have options.

Later that afternoon Mita took me to the national police station. I had to prove that I worked at the Hotel California. The police asked for a bunch of paperwork, the pencil pusher inside the office only looked at my Peruvian ID and passport. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

The two offices couldn’t be more different. No real security at the police HQ except they wrote down my I.D. number at the door. Then we walked up a dusty staircase to the office. Inside we waited on a few beat up sofas that looked like they were taken directly from a college student’s apartment. Sitting on the largest sofa was a man who said he was the “boss” of the office. He told us to wait, while he chatted on his cell phone.

Thirty minutes later we were taken back to an office about the size of a one car garage. Inside three agents were working while two were reading the paper. The boss had moved his cell phone chatting operation to a large desk in the back of the room with a Peruvian flag perched on top.

Our agent seemed friendly at first. He began filling out a form on the computer and asking me questions. This whole trip could have lasted 10 minutes, if he knew how to type. Instead he pecked his way across the keyboard while we answered. Then he asked for “proof” of my college degree and wondered why I got the job if I’m not a teacher. Thankfully my mother-in-law explained I didn’t have to be a teacher to work at Hotel California and he seemed to calm down a bit.

When he was done, I got behind his desk and corrected his mistakes. Like my name, my parents name, our address in Peru, etc. As I said before I’m still not sure why I had to show up for this appointment, but I’m still working so that’s a good thing.

Paper trail

Sunday, April 5th, 2009

After one month and one week on the job, I had this epiphany. I work at Hotel California. I can truely check out anytime I like, but I can never really leave. These split shifts don’t help. This month I have classes at 7:30 a.m., 5 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. I’m also observing a class at 8:45 a.m.

Although I do go home for a few hours to grab lunch and plan for my afternoon, it feels like I never quite leave the institute. I’m always going back there for something: class, a meeting or to fill out more paperwork.

Friday I found out an appointment has been set up for me at National Police headquarters downtown. For some reason they need to see my I.D., passport, employment contract and my first Peruvian pay stub.

Why? I’m not really sure.

Knowing how things work here I’ll have to present all the paperwork to some office worker, possibly pay some sort of fee (usually between $5-10) and get a stamped sheet of paper I’ll have to give to human resources at work. Seriously, the mountains of paperwork it takes to get a job here is unreal. In the good old U.S.A. all you do is show your I.D., Social Security card and sign a tax form or two at work! There’s no running from office to office to collect stamps and pay fees.

Monday morning Vanessa also has her big debut at the U.S. Embassy. We still don’t know the details of her visit, but we can’t turn a bureaucratic appointment down. That requires more paperwork that my parents somehow squeeked out during the crazy flood. In a semi-ironic twist, just about every piece U.S. paperwork comes with a paragraph on the “paperwork reduction act” which was passed by Congress about a decade ago that apparently “reduced” paperwork. I still don’t buy it. If that’s the case, why am I filling out all these forms?

As the paperwork turns, asking for a half day off at work also cost the environment a few trees.

Way back in December V and I booked a trip to visit her uncle in the Peruvian jungle over the upcoming Easter break. This was way before I could legally apply for a job. With my scheudle for this month set, I’ll miss two classes Wednesday night in order to catch the plane. Which I just found out is a big no, no. It’s against school policy to ask for a day off before a holiday weekend. So, I had to write a letter to the central office explaining my case. Now I wait for the official OK.

In the meantime I told my boss that I’m going anyways. She told me if I go it would count against my record and since I’m not on the payroll yet she would advise against it. I read her speech as a thinly veiled threat at my job, but they won’t fire me until my three-month probation period is up.

So this trip could cost me my job at Hotel California. Then I’ll have to look for another job and the paper trail will grow.